La Condesa Mexico City: The Ultimate Guide By Local Expats

La Condesa Mexico City is an awesome place to explore. We should know. It’s where we live part of every year, dining out on tacos at El Pescadito, sipping martinis at Baltra Bar, and shopping for groceries at the neighbourhood tianguis.

If you’re the kind of person who likes to do more on holiday than tick off the top tourist attractions, there are loads of cool things to do in Condesa Mexico City. Among the capital’s most fashionable areas, it’s filled with small art galleries and independent boutiques that put local creators centre stage. 

It also has the densest population of high-quality cafes in CDMX—and that’s coming from a pair of self-confessed coffee snobs!

The best way to discover its secrets is to get lost down its streets yourself, but to get you started. This post contains some of the Condesa activities and places we love most.

⚠️ 10 Survival Tips For Your Trip To Mexico City. We live here and know both the amazing and the ugly sides of the city. ➡️ ➡️ Get your FREE Guide here.

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La Condesa Neighborhood Mexico City: Introduction 

Residential, trendy, and safe, La Condesa is one of the best places to stay in Mexico City. Tree-lined avenues and leafy parks lend the whole place a genteel vibe that’s extremely appropriate given that its name literally means ‘The Countess.’

A few hundred years ago, the area was essentially one big hacienda owned by the Countess of Miravalle. As time went on, the land was adopted by aristocratic residents eager to escape the main downtown area. 

Following the Mexican Revolution, Condesa was further developed to provide housing for the middle and upper classes. At the same time, it attracted many bohemian-minded creatives keen to set up shop in stylish art deco houses.

Like much of CDMX, it suffered significant damage during the earthquake of 1985. Since then, however, the Mexico City Condesa neighbourhood has returned to its past, once more drawing in artsy and/or upwardly mobile types to its streets.

Things To Do In Condesa Mexico City 

#1 Relax At Parque Mexico

Parque Mexico was built in 1927, just as the rest of Hipodromo (one of the three colonias that make up Condesa) was being developed into a ritzy residential district.

The largest Condesa park Mexico City has to offer. There’s plenty to do inside the leafy area. Gym equipment, a children’s playground, a dog school, and a lake that chirps with the sound of birds all contribute to a community space that’s top of our list of places to decompress.

The park even has a rather cool audiorama concept where they pump out soothing music as you nestle inside hanging egg chairs.

We especially love coming here on weekends when the Parque Mexico gets lively with bachata dance sessions, ball games, social meetups, and even the odd boxing class!

Don’t miss the Foro Lindbergh, an art deco plaza right at the heart of the park. It was constructed to commemorate the legendary aviator Charles Lindbergh, who supposedly landed his plane here back in the day.

WHERE: Google Location

#2 Lunch At Cafebrería El Péndulo 

A beautiful café built inside a well-stocked bookshop, Cafebrería El Péndulo is one of our fav coffee shops in Mexico City.

We usually come here for lunch and order one of their whopping glasses of fresh orange juice and the chicken enchiladas with mole, but there’s a huge all-day menu to choose from. 

For Mexican meals, they do everything from traditional tortilla soup and chilaquiles to vegan tacos made with mushrooms. You can also go with standby international fare like sandwiches, burgers, and pasta.

We mustn’t skip over the coffee, which caters for various dietary requirements with things like soy and almond milk, as well as lactose-free milk. 

During the week, the vibe is chill, with lots of places to pop open the laptop and get some typing done. At the weekend, they usually have live music on, setting the scene for arguably the best laidback brunch Condesa Mexico City has to offer.

WHERE: Google Location

#3 Check Out Condesa’s Art Galleries

It was right after the Mexican Revolution that Condesa began to attract artistic types to its tree-lined avenues. There’s a kind of poetic aptness to the fact that there are still so many indie galleries to check out.

📍 Mooni – Mooni showcases the fun side of the Mexico City La Condesa neighbourhood. Almost every inch of wall space is covered with artwork in an array of different styles, but it’s the friendly, approachable staff that have cemented this place as one of our top recommendations.

📍 La Nao Galeria – La Nao gives emerging artists a chance to shine in its small but perfectly formed gallery. The focus is mainly on giving Mexican creators solo shows, but the last exhibition we saw there centred on an up-and-coming Venezuelan painter.

📍 Tinta Naranja Urban Galery – Creating a space for the public to engage with art since 2013, Tinta Naranja is another bijou gallery that sums up La Condesa’s approachable attitude to art. Every time we visit, there seems to be a colourful (often irreverent) pop-art-y range of pieces on display.

#4 Go Shopping In Condesa Mexico City

We’ve found many unique concept stores shopping in La Condesa Mexico City. If you’re after less obvious souvenirs of your trip, here are a handful of cute boutiques we like. 

📍 Ocelote – Catwalk meets urban grunge at Ocelote, which does boldly cut clothing for anybody that wants a statement piece. It’s all designed and manufactured in Mexico, so head here if you want avant-garde apparel that doubles as a souvenir.

📍 Viejo Amor – Viejo Amor is a great upscale boutique for women who want to pick up something that screams everyday glamour. They also do gorgeous accessories, including cute handbags and statement jewellery.

📍 Columpio – Right next to the Mooni art gallery, Columpio brings the same vibrant energy to its clothing. We particularly like their bold, colourful designs, although you can get some more muted clothing as well. All of it takes inspiration from Latin American culture.

📍 Someone Somewhere – A store with a lovely ethos, Someone Somewhere sells handmade products made by skilled artisans. We bought a T-shirt and a backpack here and were given the name of the person who made each piece so we could learn more about their story.

📍 Aurelia Concept Store – Founded by three sisters, Aurelia showcases slow fashion from a variety of Mexican designers. Although many of the designers have their own boutiques in CDMX, we like coming here because you get to see a bit of everyone in a single place.

📍 Casa Melibea – Combining two of our favourite things, this spot in Mexico City La Condesa is a coffee shop that contains a hidden store at the back selling pretty jewellery, accessories and a small clothesline. 

#5 Gorge On Seafood Tacos At El Pescadito

One of the best restaurants in Condesa, El Pescadito has the tastiest fish tacos in CDMX – and we’ve tried a lot! 

You’ll spot this no-frills chain in different areas throughout the city, selling tortillas stuffed with battered fish, shrimp, or ‘marlitun’ (marlin-style smoked tuna) for just 52 pesos (just under $3) a pop. 

If you only have room for one, we’d always go for the shrimp, but given their size, you should be able to manage at least two!

Part of what makes this place so good is its great self-serve salsa and salad station, where you can customize your fillings to your own tastes. 

There’s usually a queue whenever we go, but it moves fast. Grab a seat outside if you can and enjoy some of the best tacos in Condesa Mexico City while people watching.

WHERE: Google Location

#6 Walk or Cycle On Avenida Amsterdam 

Colonia Condesa Mexico City is actually made up of three separate colonias, two of which contain Hipodromo in their name, a reference to the horse track that once occupied this area. 

Look at a map and you can still see the shape of that track, which was transformed into the Avenida Amsterdam. 

These days, you won’t see horses cantering along the route, but you will see plenty of people walking, jogging, or cycling. It’s where we and other residents of Condesa get our morning exercise, as it makes for a scenic loop.

WHERE: Google Location

#7 Eat Churros At Churerria El Moro

Our go-to spot on weekend evenings, Churerria El Moro is an institution in the capital. 

One of the essential things to do in Condesa Mexico City is to come to this popular chain for some of their delicious churros, complemented by a tub of chocolate, condensed milk, hazelnut chocolate, or cajeta (caramelised goat’s milk).

The roots of the brand go all the way back to 1935, when a Spanish immigrant craving the taste of home set up a small shop selling churros. Almost 90 years on and there are now 15 branches spread across the capital, from Polanco and Roma to Coyoacan and Gustavo A. Madero.

It gets really busy at the Condesa branch, so we don’t stick around to eat. Instead, we get our churros to go and head to the neighbouring Parque Mexico for a stroll.

WHERE: Google Location

#8 Try Local Speciality Drip Coffee

Mexico is one of the biggest coffee producers in the world, growing quality beans in many of its southern states, including Chiapas, Veracruz, and Oaxaca. Although cultivation in the nation is long-standing, it’s only within the last decade or so that third-wave coffee culture has arrived CDMX – but wow, has it arrived!

Many of the best coffee shops in La Condesa Mexico City have fully embraced drip coffees and cold brews, all made using domestically sourced beans. 

There are a lot of places to choose from, but one of our regular hangouts is Camino a Camala, where coffee connoisseur Robin usually orders the smooth Finca Los Naranjos drip coffee. The café has got that whole industrial chic thing going on, but the seats are very comfy for settling in for a day’s work.

Less than 10 minutes’ walk away, Drip Speciality Coffee is another place we frequently go for our cup of joe, though Mal is also partial to the ice chai latte, a great hot-weather cooler. The space is a bit smaller, but they have some nice outdoor seating and are super dog-friendly.

#9 Have An Ice Cream Stop At Bendito Paleta + Parque Espana

Given the eternal spring that exemplifies the weather in the capital, having an ice cream is one of those things to do in La Condesa Mexico City, regardless of the season. 

Bendito Paleta is our fav gelato place – and not just because they often run a promo where you can get 3 scoops for the price of 2! 

There are some delicious flavours on sale, including refreshing fruity options like hibiscus with lychee and guava with passionfruit, as well as creamier choices like tiramisu and chocolate almond. The heladeria also sells a photogenic selection of paletas, the Mexican equivalent of ice lollies.

Throw yourself down on some of the outdoor seating that looks out on the Parque Espana, or take your cup to go and explore the park’s various areas on foot.

WHERE: Google Location

#10 Explore Chapultepec Park

The oldest and largest urban park in Latin America, Chapultepec, lies on the western edge of La Condesa Mexico City. People have been coming here for thousands of years to chill out, all the way back to the pre-Hispanic days.

We often head to the park for a Sunday bike ride, but there’s a ton of stuff for first-timers to see, including botanical gardens, several museums, and Chapultepec Lake, where you can rent a boat and go for a romantic row.

If you’re short on time, the number-one thing to see is Chapultepec Castle, which was built atop a hill by a former Spanish viceroy. The building’s showrooms are spectacular, but the terrace, which has amazing views of Reforma, is the best.

WHERE: Google Location

#11 Have A Cocktail At Baltra Bar

One of the best bars in Condesa Mexico City, Baltra sits just inside the World’s 50 Best Bars list.

There’s a mixture of perfect classic cocktails and intriguing original mixtures on the menu, all made using natural juice and locally grown spices. The martinis and margaritas are especially good!

Whenever we go, this spot is buzzing, so make sure you book in advance if you want to sit in the stylish lounge rather than on the uncomfortable stools they set up on the street.

WHERE: Google Location

#12 Take A Photo At Psycho Bunny 

Here’s something you won’t find on many other lists of what to do in Condesa Mexico City: take a photo outside the Psycho Bunny store! 

Fittingly enough for a funky modern apparel line, the US brand’s shop straddles CDMX’s two trendiest neighbourhoods, Condesa and Roma. 

Although you may be a fan of the menswear designer, we’ve included this more because this Psycho Bunny branch occupies an iconic building with a massive golden hand on its roof. Time to have some fun with camera perspective! 

WHERE: Google Location

#13 Sample Craft Beer At Drunkendog

Another of our fav bars in Condesa Mexico City (especially with Robin), Drunkendog is a craft microbrewery and bar with a bunch of tasty beers on tap.

Most of the ales, lagers, and bitters here are made in-house, but they also offer a curated selection of beers from other Mexican breweries if you want to drink more deeply from the domestic scene. 

Although the beers are obviously the main attraction, we also like the style of the place. It’s a big space that gives off American sports bar vibes, with long high tables inside and a good-sized patio outside.

WHERE: Google Location

#14 Shop Like A Local At Condesa Tianguis

Tianguis have been a feature of Mexican civilisation for centuries. A Nahuatl word referring to open-air markets, they first existed in the Mesoamerican era but continued to flourish after the arrival of the conquistadors up until the modern day.

Unlike the main markets in Mexico City, every neighbourhood has its own tianguis where locals go to buy their fruit and veg on a set day of the week. 

If you want to shop like a Chilango, one of the things to do in Condesa Mexico City is to go to the market that pops up on Agustin Melgar every Tuesday.

We do our weekly grocery run here for fresh produce and can never resist taking advantage of the delicious street food stands at the same time!

Since this is a gentrified Condesa, it’s one of the pricier tianguis in town. If you want to get the best price possible, try and observe how much locals are paying for their goods and make sure you haggle when necessary.

WHERE: Google Location

#15 Gorge On Street Food Tortas

Next to tacos, tortas are probably our favourite street eat. We say ‘probably’ because there are a lot of contenders for best food in La Condesa Mexico City, but it’s hard to resist these chunky, doorstop-style sarnies stuffed with flavourful fillings!

La Esquina del Chilaquil is our go-to place for tortas. This pop-up tent only offers a couple of different options, but each one is a beauty bursting with refried beans, chilaquiles, cheese, and salsa.

We’re big fans of the cochinita pibil (pulled pork seasoned with achiote and citrus), but the Milanese (breaded chicken cutlet) is also mouth-wateringly good. You can also ask for both in your sandwich, simply ask for “la bomba”.

WHERE: Google Location

#16 Eat Frozen Yoghurt At Mygyo

Eating yummy treats is definitely one of the highlights of our life in La Condesa Mexico City. When we’re in a healthy mindset that prevents us from devouring churros and gelato, Mygyo is the place we go.

This shop on the edge of Parque Mexico does delicious froyo in a range of flavours. We tend to stick to the natural version, but they also do taro, chocolate, and coconut. 

Once you have the base, you can finish it off with various kinds of fruits and granola, as well as more indulgent sweet toppings.

WHERE: Google Location

#17 Enjoy The View At Skybar Condesa

One of the best rooftop bars in Mexico City, Skybar has that stylish yet laidback vibe that makes Condesa so seductive. We’re also not averse to the DJ beats!

All the things to see in Condesa Mexico City can be viewed from this hip hangout, which is located on the top floor of the Mondrian Hotel. It’s a covered space, so you can enjoy the sights even when it’s raining.

The prices are on the high side, but the bar is stocked with luxury spirits that are mixed into some very serviceable cocktails. They also do upscale meals if you start to get peckish. 

WHERE: Google Location

Is Condesa Mexico City Safe?

Yes, Condesa is very safe. Even before we visited on our first trip to CDMX, we knew that the area had a reputation as being one of the safest parts of the city. Since moving here, we’ve never experienced any issues, whether walking about during the day or in the evening.

Best Places To Eat In Condesa Mexico City

We’ve already talked about some of our picks of places to dine, but here’s a quick rundown of the restaurants, coffee shops, and taco stands we come back to again and again. 

Best Places For Breakfast & Brunch

📍 El Pendulo  – Part café, part bookstore, El Pendulo is a superb place to grab classic Mexican brunch dishes like enchiladas and chilaquiles. We usually come here during the weekends when they have live musical performances, turning it into a buzzy, social environment.

📍 Tierra Garat – Tierra Garat is a coffee chain with several branches throughout CDMX, but the one on Mexico City La Condesa’s Avenida Nuevo Leon is the best. We’re big fans of the sandwiches and pastries, which provide solid fuel for a full day’s work.

📍 Boicot Café – For the best breakfast Condesa Mexico City has to offer, Boicot is in our top 5. The retro, funky interiors are a great place to work solo or meet up with friends, accompanied by enchiladas, shakshuka, bagels, and other brekkie bits and pieces.

Best Coffee Shops 

☕ Camino a Camala – Boasting some of the best coffee in Condesa Mexico City, Camino a Camala sources specialty beans from Puebla, Veracruz and Chiapas. The excellent selection of hot and cold coffee drinks is complemented by all-day fare like baguettes, pizzas, and salads.

☕ Drip Speciality Coffee – Drip Speciality Coffee is a compact, pet-friendly place that serves up excellent drip coffee and cold brews paired with croissants, sandwiches, and other simple eats. We’re particularly partial to the freshly baked cookies.

☕ Cardinal – We often pop into Cardinal because it’s close to our apartment – and has some of the best coffee Condesa Mexico City has to offer! We love all their pastries and pour-over brews, but the fabulous banana bread is out of this world.

Where To Find The Best Tacos In La Condesa Mexico City? 

🌮 El Pescadito – A popular chain specialising in seafood tacos, El Pescadito’s breezy setup is a great place to grab tortillas filled with either shrimp, fish, smoked tuna or a mixture of all three. Top off your taco with salsa and salad from the self-serve station.

🌮 Taco Hola El Guero – At just 26 pesos ($1.50) a piece, the tacos de guisado sold here are very affordable – and diverse. Options range from chicken tinga to stewed nopales (cactus pads). We often pop in here after doing a shop at Walmart and grab an order to go.

🌮 El Kaliman – Our neighbourhood taqueria, El Kalimán, has an enormous menu of options, from beefsteak and pork chop to mushrooms and cheese. Just mark off what you want on the order slip, hand it over to a member of staff, and wait to enjoy some of the best tacos in Mexico City. 

Best Dinning Spots In La Condesa Neighborhood Mexico City

🍽️ Cafe Toscano – When we fancy a break from Mexican cuisine, we head to Cafe Toscano for Italian classics, served up on a lively corner by the Parque Mexico that’s great for people-watching. We mostly order pizza, but the menu is quite extensive. 

🍽️ Patagonia – We like the chilled atmosphere at Patagonia, which is a mixture of Argentine items and international cuisine. The steaks are a specialty, but we’re also fans of the empanadas and medialunas – the place doubles as a bakery.. 

​​🍽️ La Pescadería – Cooking some of the best food in Condesa Mexico City for seafood lovers, La Pescaderia’s menu is a sea of items like grilled tuna, shrimp aguachile, and octopus ceviche. Order a cocktail and enjoy the DJ’s tunes.

La Condesa Mexico City Nightlife 

The nightlife Condesa Mexico City has to offer is generally all about mellow vibes and bijou bars. Particularly south of the Parque Espana, there are quite a few small, trendy places to enjoy a drink and some casual chat.

Baltra, which we mentioned above, is our go-to for well-mixed cocktails, but we’re also regulars at places like Local 1, which is good for a cheeky wine, and Ozuluama, which does a great cheese plate to go with their vino.

For more clubby places, we normally go to Roma Norte, but Wallace Whisky Bar is fun for relatively low-key dancing at the weekends. It’s got kind of an upscale pub vibe, but we usually order cocktails over beers and whiskey.

Roma vs Condesa Mexico City

There are a lot of cool things to do in Condesa Mexico City, but it’s admittedly not quite as edgy or exciting as Roma. 

For us as digital nomads, Condesa is awesome because it’s residential and has all the trappings for comfortable modern living. Plus, you’re right on the edge of Chapultepec Park when you need to take a break from city life.

For most people coming on a short vacay, however, we’d usually recommend they stay in Roma Norte so they can make the most of the trendy restaurants, the speakeasy scene, and the thumping clubs. It’s also closer to the Centro Historico, where a lot of the major tourist sights are situated.

Best Places To Stay In Condesa Mexico City

There are a few amazing hotels in La Condesa to choose from, including some stunning boutique options. Here are our top 2 picks:

La Condesa Mexico City: Wrap-Up

We are probably (OK, definitely) very biased about how awesome La Condesa Mexico City is, but there’s no denying the number of unique little things that the neighbourhood has to charm the curious traveller. 

Whether it’s licking a hibiscus paleta while enjoying the music of local buskers or shopping for eye-catching apparel at a store that promotes Mexican artisanship, the colonia is the best showcase for modern Mexico’s appeal.