Coyoacan Mexico City: The Ultimate Guide By Local Expats
Leafy, colourful and full of culture, Coyoacan Mexico City has a completely different feel to the rest of town. Covering a huge area, the borough is almost like a city all of its own โ which for a long time it was!
Located south of CDMX centre, itโs one of our favourite Mexico City neighbourhoods, filled with characterful houses, cheerful community plazas, and centuries-old churches.
Itโs probably most famous as the place where Frida Kahlo was born, lived, and died, but it also has unusual attractions like the Leon Trotsky Museum, macabrely housed in the place where the famed communist was murdered.
Even though we live in Condesa, we still head down to Mexico City Coyoacan occasionally to grab a coffee at El Jarocho and a torta from the mercado, before enjoying a relaxing walk through the quaint streets.
Here, weโve rounded up some of our top tips for things to do in this picture-perfect quarter.
โ ๏ธ 10 Survival Tips For Your Trip To Mexico City. We live here and know both the amazing and the ugly sides of the city. โก๏ธ โก๏ธ Get your FREE Guide here.x
Coyoacan Neighborhood Mexico City: Introduction
For centuries, Coyoacan was an independent city. Founded by the Tepanec people, it later fell under the sway of the Aztecs, who gave it its current name, which means โplace of coyotesโ in Nahuatl.
When conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in the early 1500s, he used Coyoacan as a base to launch his attack on the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. He even briefly made it the capital of New Spain while he was in the process of razing Tenochtitlan to make way for modern Mexico City.
Reminders of Cortesโ stay in Coyoacan CDMX are still visible today, from the so-called Casa de Cortes, located on the site of the Spaniardโs first HQ, to the churches he installed for Catholic worship.
These buildings form part of the colonial fabric of the borough, which reminds us more of the picturesque towns of Queretaro or Merida than downtown CDMX. The tree-lined avenues and cobblestone streets are no doubt what attracted so many bohemian artists and intellectuals to the area, including painter Frida Kahlo and communist thinker Leon Trotsky.
This is where to stay in Mexico City if you want to live in one of the nicest, safest parts of town โ as long as you donโt mind having to travel a little to see the sights in the Centro Historico. With its unique museums, charming vibe, and bustling Coyoacan Mercado, thereโs plenty of appeal.
Things To Do In Coyoacan Mexico City
#1 Visit The Frida Kahlo Museum
Topping our list of what to do in Coyoacan Mexico City is the Frida Kahlo Museum. Located inside the former home of Kahlo, itโs easy to spot because the exterior is painted a luminous blue.
Mal is a huge a fan of Kahlo, so this is one of the first things we did in CDMX โ and it does not disappoint. The museum offers a glimpse into both Kahloโs artistic side through her work and tools as well as her day-to-day life, represented by her apparel and the decorative folk objects that fill the rooms.
One of the most beautiful places of all is the garden, which contains the same plants that Kahlo nurtured during her lifetime.
The museum gets enormously busy, so make sure to purchase tickets in advance online.
WHERE: Google Location
TICKET: $320 MXN
#2 Relax In The Jardin Plaza Hidalgo & Jardin Centenario
A pair of plazas at the heart of Coyoacan, the Jardin Plaza Hidalgo and Jardin Centenario, are the anchor of the neighbourhood. Itโs here that local people congregate during the weekends, with pop-up events livening up the area on a regular basis.
The Jardin Centenario is the one that contains the famous fountain of the coyotes that has become a symbol of the district. Jardin Hidalgo meanwhile contains a statue of the โFounding Father of Mexico,โ Miguel Hidalgo.
We like to come here on sunny days, buy nieves (frozen treats) from one of the stores surrounding the squares, and just watch the world pass by.
WHERE: Google Location & Google Location
#3 Eat Tortas At The Mercado De Coyoacan Mexico City
The Mercado de Coyoacan in Mexico City has a nice mix of things to purchase, from Kahlo-themed souvenirs and traditional clothing to tasty tostadas filled with octopus. The people running the stalls are mostly friendly and chill, which makes for a relaxing market experience.
We usually come here for the tortas (stuffed sandwich rolls), but you can get all kinds of antojitos (street food), served up with refreshing aguas frescas. Take your time exploring all the Mercado has to offer!
WHERE: Google Location
#4 Ride The Tram (Tranvia Coyoacan)
One of the best things to do in Coyoacan Mexico City as an intro to the neighbourhood, the old-school tram covers a good chunk of the major sights.
Over the course of 45 minutes, a guide talks you through the Frida Kahlo Museum, the Leon Trotsky Museum, the Coyoacan Market, and the Plaza Santa Catarina, among other stops.
Just bear in mind that the tour is conducted in Spanish, which was fine for us because Mal is fluent, but obviously, it might be a turnoff for some people.
WHERE: Google Location
TICKET: $140 MXN
#5 Make A Pilgrimage To San Juan Bautista Church
Donโt be fooled by the plain-looking exterior of San Juan Bautista. Once you step through the doors, the interior is covered in evocative paintings of Jesus, accompanied by several gilded altars.
It was originally constructed in the 1500s by Franciscan friars, making it one of the oldest churches in Mexico.
WHERE: Google Location
#6 Step Into The Past At The Leon Trotsky House Museum
Although this is one of the smaller museums in Coyoacan, it packs a punch, especially for anyone with a passion for history and political intrigue.
Situated inside the house where the Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky spent his final days, the museum preserves everything just as it was 80-something years ago. That includes the room where Leon Trotsky was murdered by Stalinist thugs with an ice axe.
WHERE: Google Location
TICKET: $40 MXN
#7 Pick Up A Souvenir At The Mercado Artesanal Mexicano
The Coyoacan Artisan Market is the other mercado that we recommend visiting in this neighbourhood. Itโs smaller and more tourist-oriented than the main Coyoacan Market, but itโs also got a greater focus on handcrafted mementos to take home.
As its name suggests, it is filled with indie artisans selling everything from funky clothing and handmade jewellery to brightly painted alebrijes (folk art sculptures of fantastical creatures).
WHERE: Google Location
#8 Walk In The Footsteps Of Cortes At The Plaza De La Conchita
A bit of a Coyoacan deep cut, the Plaza de la Conchita is not just an attractive neighbourhood square but a place with a story.
Tradition has it that it was originally a garden constructed back in the early 1500s by Hernan Cortes for his indigenous translator and consort, La Malinche.
On the western side of the square, you can still see La Casa Colorado (โThe Coloured Houseโ), where Cortes and La Malinche lived together for a time. Itโs been renovated multiple times in the half-century since it housed the couple, but we were told that some parts of the walls are still original.
Itโs a similar story with the Capilla de la Conchita, a chapel originally constructed by Cortes in 1525 where he and La Malinche would worship. Most of what you see today, though, is from the 17th century.
Inside the chapel, thereโs a gorgeous, glittering golden altar to check out, but we must admit we havenโt quite figured out the hours. Sometimes itโs open when we visit, and sometimes itโs not!
WHERE: Google Location
#9 Eat Churros At Churreria El Moro
Eating a churro in Mexico should be on every foodie bucket list, and Churrerria El Moro is the place to do it in CDMX!
Founded back in 1935 by a Spanish immigrant, the brand has blossomed over the years, with locations now spread throughout the capital.
The Coyoacan Mexico City branch is a semi-open space with a decent number of tables, located just south of the Jardin Centanario.
We usually order our churros with the classic chocolate dip and a Mexicano coffee, but they also do little tubs of condensed milk, chocolate hazelnut, and cajeta (caramelised goatโs milk). People with a real sweet tooth also have a dangerously delicious choice of milkshakes.
WHERE: Google Location
#10 Rest And Refresh In Frida Kahlo Park
Just over the road from the Plaza de la Conchita, the Frida Kahlo Park was formerly the site of livestock auctions, then a textile factory, before its final incarnation was inaugurated in 1984.
In honour of the eponymous artist, there are a couple of Kahlo sculptures that make for nice photographic mementoes. Really, though, we tend to come here just to sit down for a little while in tranquil surroundings.
WHERE: Google Location
#11 Order A Coffee At El Jarocho
One of the most iconic coffee stands in CDMX, El Jarocho, has been selling Americanos and cappuccinos since 1953 when it was just a mom-and-pop joint.
Today, they have several cafes scattered throughout the neighbourhood. Despite the increased success, each branch still has the bare-bones, welcoming neighbourhood feel that turned the brand into such a hit.
We usually head to the original location on the corner of Cuahtemoc and Allende, grab a coffee and some doughnuts, and then wander over to the Jardin Plaza Hidalgo for some people-watching in the sun.
Expect a queue, but it usually moves pretty fast.
WHERE: Google Location
#12 Trek Out To The Diego Riviera Anahuacalli Museum
A visit to the Anahuacalli Museum is one of the most underrated things to do in Coyoacan Mexico City.
Yes, it is a bit far out from the centre of Coyoacan, but by Uber, itโs usually only a 10-15 minutes drive.
The building itself is a stunner, made from black volcanic rock and designed by Diego Rivera to act as a tribute to Mesoamerican architecture. Both Rivera and Kahlo were big collectors of Indigenous art, and much of their collection has ended up here, including numerous sculptures.
We found the lack of descriptions a bit perplexing โ for detailed info on pre-Hispanic civilisation, youโd be better off going to the National Museum of Anthropology. We still loved our visit though, not least because it all feels like one big installation piece!
WHERE: Google Location
TICKET: $100 MXN
#13 Learn About Folk Art At The Museum Nacional De Cultural Populares
One of the lesser-visited Coyoacan museums, the National Museum of Popular Culture, was created in 1982 to display the diverse array of Mexican folk arts.
Inside a tangerine-orange building just east of Jardin Hidalgo, you can see a small but nicely curated selection of pottery, paintings, masks, and more.
Last time we went the descriptions were still mostly in Spanish, so get that translator app handy if youโre not a speaker!
WHERE: Google Location
TICKET: $18 MXN
#14 Check Out Paintings At Jardin Del Arte Allende
Continuing the artsy spirit of Coyoacan, the Jardin Del Arte Allende comes alive on weekends with local painters and craftspeople, who set up their stalls to display a mixture of decorative items.
Itโs a great place to pick up a local souvenir, as well as to enjoy the general vibe. Thereโs usually a group of locals getting their exercise with a little light-hearted dancing, which is super charming to see!
WHERE: Google Location
#15 Hop On A Cycle At Bicigratis
As an alternative to a walking tour in Coyoacan, head to one of the Bicigratis kiosks. This rather nifty initiative allows people to take out a bike for a set period for absolutely no charge.
Although we love the concept, itโs not always easy to find a Bicigratis. Instead, we sometimes utilise the paid Ecobici bike-sharing service, which is easy to set up and has more stands throughout CDMX.
WHERE: Google Location
#16 Chapel Of Santa Catarina
Not far from the sprawling El Historico Coyoacan park and tree nursery, the Plaza de Santa Catarina is at the heart of one of the more traditional neighbourhoods in the Coyoacan borough.
There are a couple of cute little restaurants lining the square, but the main attraction is the mustard-yellow chapel, which has roots in the 16th century.
WHERE: Google Location
#17 Casa de Cultura Jesus Reyes Heroles
If weโre in the Santa Catarina area, we usually try and pop into the Casa de Cultura Jesรบs Reyes Heroles, which is just south of the plaza.
This attractive colonial-era hacienda hosts regular exhibitions and workshops on a range of Mexican cultural topics. Thereโs also a rather nice courtyard cafรฉ with outdoor seating where you can plonk down for some refreshment.
It may not be right at the top of our list of Coyoacan things to do, but it adds nicely to the general flavour of the neighbourhood.
WHERE: Google Location
#18 Snap A Pic Of The UNAM Library
Not exactly part of Coyoacan Mexico City but in the same southern segment of the greater urban sprawl, the main campus of the Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico (UNAM) is a landmark architectural project.
One of a handful of higher-learning institutions around the world that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was built in the 1950s and incorporates ideas and designs from some of the foremost Mexican architects and artists of the 20th century.
The Ciudad Universitaria (University City) is a huge space to explore, but the library has become particularly iconic, as itโs adorned with a colourful mural by Juan O’Gorman that explores the history of Mexico.
WHERE: Google Location
#19 Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Speaking of Juan OโGorman, heโs also the person who designed the Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo, a pair of houses linked by a rooftop walkway.
They were specifically created to act as residences/ateliers for Rivera and Kahlo. Appropriately given Kahloโs childhood home is the Casa Azul, her building is the blue, smaller building, while Riveraโs is the red and white one.
Technically, this museum is located just outside of Coyoacan, but it makes sense to visit it as part of the neighbourhood since itโs so closely tied to Kahlo and Rivera.
We were surprised there werenโt more pieces of art by the pair on display when we went, but then again, weโd already seen quite a bit downtown!
WHERE: Google location
Is Coyoacan Mexico City Safe?
Coyoacan is one of the safest parts of Mexico City. The very first time we visited we were immediately struck by the nice neighbourhood vibe that the place has, both during the day and at night. Ask any Chilango and theyโll tell you that the area has a stellar reputation!
Best Places To Eat In Coyoacan Mexico City
Wrapping up our guide to Coyoacan, hereโs a list of some of our favourite Coyoacan restaurants where you can grab a tasty bite to eat in between seeing the sights.
Best Brunch & Dinner Spots In Coyoacan
Many of the best restaurants in Mexico City Coyoacan double up as laidback brunch spots and atmospheric dinner destinations, so thereโs no need to plan your itinerary too precisely!
๐ด Ave Maria – We first came across Ave Maria because itโs located right on the Jardin Centenario, with outdoor seating that overlooks the park. The menu is extensive, featuring a mixture of Mexican dishes like mole and chapulines (grasshoppers) as well as more international items like steaks and burgers.
๐ด Corazรณn de Maguey – A colourfully decorated place where Kahlo would surely have felt right at home, the Corazรณn de Maguey is one of the best restaurants in Coyoacan Mexico City for tlayuda, which we would describe (very loosely) as Oaxacaโs answer to pizza.
๐ด Los Danzantes – Possibly our favourite formal restaurant in Coyoacan, Los Danzantes offers a slightly more upscale Mexican dining experience. Make sure to try the iconic hoja santa dish here, which consists of the signature herb slathered with quesillo (Oaxacan cheese), goatโs cheese and a spicy tomato sauce.
Best Coffee Shops & Breakfast
A couple of the best coffee shops in Mexico City are found in the chill streets of Coyoacan. If youโre an early bird, they also do simple breakfast items to pump up your energy for a day of exploration.
โ Cafe El Jarocho – No Coyoacan guide would be complete without a mention of Cafรฉ El Jarocho, one of the most historic coffee spots in CDMX. There are several branches around the borough, each one emblematic of the no-frills neighbourhood vibe that is the brandโs signature.
โ Cafรฉ Avellaneda – Cafรฉ Avellaneda may be small but itโs one of the most serious coffee shops in Coyoacan. Each brew is made from single-origin beans sourced from Chiapas, Veracruz, and Oaxaca. We usually get our coffee to go, so we can enjoy it on our way down to Plaza de la Conchita.
โ Cafรฉ Negro – If youโd rather sit and enjoy your coffee, Cafรฉ Negro has plenty of seating and a good selection of drinks, from chai lattes to iced mochas. They also do a good line in freshly made sandwiches.
Where To Find The Best Tacos In Coyoacan?
Some of the best tacos in Coyoacan are conveniently located around the two main squares at the heart of the borough, so thereโs no need to travel far for the popular street eat.
๐ฎ La Casa de Los Tacos Coyoacรกn – This is where to eat in Coyoacan if you want your tacos served up in a cozy space. The prices are on the high side, but you get more of a restaurant-y vibe for your buck.
๐ฎ Pepe Coyotes Coyoacรกn – There are two Pepe Coyotes locations in Coyoacan, both with a similar down-home style. We were particularly impressed by the size of the tacos โ this is definitely one for people who like larger portions!
๐ฎ Coyote Hambriento – The price to quality ratio is good at Coyote Hambriento, which serves up tasty tacos alongside ice-cold beers. We usually go for the Tijuana-style asada tacos, but they also do bursting burritos and your standard hamburgers.
Coyoacan Nightlife
Coyoacan doesnโt have the buzziest Mexico City Nightlife, but the area is not without its charms.
La Celestina is the cantina that we go to if weโre in the mood for a lively-ish evening. They usually have a DJ playing music and a chatty crowd that makes for a nice atmosphere.
If you want a drink overlooking the main square, El Hijo del Cuervo has some good outdoor seating. We wouldnโt order food here, but the cocktails are decent.
Best Places To Stay In Coyoacan Mexico City
There is a good selection of hotels in Coyoacan, but these two are our top recommendations:
H21 HOSPEDAJE BOUTIQUE
A smartly designed hideaway on an unassuming street, the H21 Hospedaje Boutique boasts roomy suites just a few steps from Coyoacanโs main square.
MI ZONA LODGING COYOACAN
Mi Zona’s Coyoacan apartments offer spacious accommodations perfect for cooking meals with fresh local market produce. Ideal for those who enjoy a home-like stay in Mexico City.
Coyoacan Mexico City: Wrap-Up
And there you have it, our guide to the best things to do in Coyoacan Mexico City! Although it doesnโt have as many โbig ticketโ items as the downtown area, the neighbourhood has a tonne of history that makes it a fascinating destination.
Despite becoming part of the wider CDMX area, itโs managed to maintain a distinctive identity that we find utterly charming!
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